Man on the Move: Sweater Succession: A Study in Color Blocking

Berluti Fall 2016.

Berluti Fall 2016.

In the midst of sweater weather - or for the gents in the North East, severe layering conditions - let’s retain our level of style and elegance by taking a page out of Berluti’s book. In this featured look from their Fall/Winter 2016 collection we see what happens when a playful inclusion of pattern is partnered with fine tailoring and expressive footwear. Add a soft leather briefcase for a refined finish. There is an effervescence to this ensemble that teaches many style lessons without being pedantic. So profess while dressing to impress. 

Style Advice: It is important to note that one must never replicate a runway look, but let it serve as a source of visual inspiration. Imprinting an individualistic spirit of personality is necessary. The latter can be done with two options; a more generously fit sweater from French Connection $50, or a slim fitting luxe mock neck from River Island $50. Step into a new comfort zone with a pair of equally neutral steel grey trousers from Suit Supply for $189. Deviate from shoe norms and get an oxford in a bold two tone burgundy by Diesel $340. A useful and light portfolio from Zara $40 provides a dapperly furnished finishing touch. 

Must-Have: A good cup sole sneaker is an easily integrated staple piece for a well-established wardrobe. This hot ticket item comes in many iterations, one of the most affordable and perennially stylish are Converse. Specifically the silhouette of the Jack Purcell cut is perfect for tailored trousers, tapered denim, joggers, sweatpants and leg bearing shorts. Snag a black leather pair and watch how effortlessly it marries into your wardrobe. 

Industry Update: Highlights from London Collections Men. Menswear has had and continues to experience a meteoric rise in the space of consumerism. In the sanctioned home of dapper clothing designed specifically for the modern man is pushing the boundaries of how masculinity is presented to the world. Labels such as Craig Green, KTZ and J.W. Anderson are on the pioneering front of this. In the same vein the tropes of good style that offer sophistication in manhood are being retained, while the proportions are gloriously questioned. We see this in the collections set forth by E. Tautz (top-right), Casley-Hayford (top-left) and Martine Rose. In the wake of social unrests and economic uncertainties in the form of Brexit and the recent President elect in the United States, what we also see are political statements made, namely by Matthew Miller. As we near NYFW Men’s in February (after the inauguration) this line of creative politico will likely be a recurrent motif in many collections. Stay tuned! 

Golden Globes: The key to success for a man on the red carpet is fit. Precise tailoring is what sets a man apart from his more elaborately donned female counterpart. He may not have a peacock coming out of his backside (possibly add in video of Chris Rock’s opening monologue at last year’s Oscars) but good color choice, a tapered silhouette, and exuded confidence is an effective way to make a photographic impact. Ryan Gosling, Eddie Redmayne, and Ryan Reynolds all exhibited this at last Sunday’s Golden Globe Awards ceremony at the Beverly Hills Hotel. 

Honorable Mentions: 

Riz Ahmed - the look was clean from hair to shoes, and the shade of navy - albeit monochromatic and not very exciting - registered beautifully on the red carpet. 

Trevante Rhodes - It is no simple task finding a good tuxedo for a defined muscular figure, but Mr. Rhodes did great work in achieving a tailored look without appearing suffocated. He could have benefitted from a classic pair of oxfords, as opposed to loafers he chose, but overall the look was dashingly photogenic. 

Critiques: 

Donald Glover made a great effort to utilize an expanded color palette, and the rich chestnut color was magnificent on his skin. Unfortunately the cut, proportions, and fabrication of both the bow tie and suit were just not quite right.

Dev Patel was classic and refined from neck to feet. The slightly extended break on his pants worked well with his height, and the sleeve length on the jacket was impeccably cut. However he missed the mark by opting out the grooming process. A clean shave and haircut would have served him tremendously well. 

Aaron Taylor won a deserved Golden Globe for Best Supporting Actor - Drama but lost in the category of tailoring. The patent loafers he donned were coveted, but the boxy tuxedo was incredibly disappointing. Effort is appreciated, but results - or the lack thereof - are unmistakable.