Boris Bidjan Saberi Fall/Winter 2017
Avant Garde streetwear is forging new ground, disseminating and calling upon fresh pioneers to carry the asymmetrical oversized torch. Within this elite genre of reconstructive garmenting, Saberi is establishing himself with the likes of Rick Owens and Yojhi Yamamoto. For Saberi’s Fall/Winter 2017 effort, cohesion served as a solid foundation for a plethora of looks embodying an eclecticism that is transferrable to pret-a-porter. It was all in the details. The platform cleats. The distressed hems. The elongated coats with handstitched underpinnings. Roping weaved into or draped over the knitwear. Cropped harness jackets. The lean use of metallic, placed in for incandescent breaches in the consistently neutral color palette. Each ensemble contributed to the amalgam that valorized Saberi’s reputed level of craft and inventive precision. However, the finale look – in all its bear allusion – would have been better left in obsolescence. It ineffectively disrupted the rhythm of the collection. What began as a solid and tastefully intriguing body of transgressive work, ended with a costume that was a very parodic disregard for the impact of the preceding looks. Nonetheless the strength of the overall collection overpowered this distasteful blunder.