Ermenegildo Zegna Fall/Winter 2017
Zegna, a house filled with reputable dignity and distinction, has succumbed to the pressures of youth culture. The collection, while stunning and as cutting edge as can be while remaining wear-able, is geared too closely to the aspirants. Alessandro Sartori – formerly of Berluti – veers quite far from the men of whom this brand is accessible. The men of age and distinction. While the show features a few men of such age, these gentlemen did not appear to move with the same ease and ownership in the clothes as their younger counterparts. Men of this age demographic can be modern and now, but the elements that make this so needs to be fine-tuned and ever so subtle. While everything that walked the runway was exquisite, from the sleek tailoring to the impeccable styling, it all felt too current. It seemed to leave out a veneration so closely associated with luxury menswear label. Perhaps this fresh take will incite the men who can afford the clothes to venture outside of their comfort zone. Or it may force the aspirants to find legit ways to invest in the sumptuous garments. Either way the aesthetic assemblage of this collection was one for the books.