Christian Dada Spring/Summer 2018

When the first looks came down the runway – languid, relaxed suits in the faintest tint of pale blue – the eye was drawn to how exquisite the soft tailoring seemed to impose itself with such ease. But it was the last time this effect was had, for a frenzy of slashed crop tops, fanny packs (manny packs?), berets and wide alligator belts would soon come marching in. Indeed, while the designer Masanori Morikawa sent down some beautiful pieces like the aforementioned suits in addition to finely crafted patchworked trousers, his focus appeared to be all over the place. While honing a key theme can be expressed numerous ways for many designers, there was a lack of cohesion in this collection that couldn’t make up for the very few standout pieces. Fusing Eastern and Western influences together, as Morikawa did in this collection, takes a certain approach that requires effortless precision that was lacking here. Beaded trousers in loud colors appeared playful but impractical. A denim double-breasted jacket with frayed hems was solid but there could have been more denim pieces scattered throughout so he could explore the fabric further. The Hawaiian print pants seemed like a last minute choice. The designer would do well to hone in on key elements for his next collection and tell a better story with his clothes.