Berluti Fall/Winter 2017
Using one word to describe the entirety of Berluti’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection: wearable. Styled to a tee, each look is equipped to walk right off the runway and onto the streets, into boardrooms, bars, restaurants, concert halls, theatres, or high rise apartments anywhere in the metropolitan world. Haider Ackermann, the mastermind behind the artisanal brand, has taken the reins of craftsmanship set forth by his predecessor and extended its reach. Berluti in the days of Alessandro Sartori was a study in handsome done impeccably. From meticulous tailoring to accessories with an appeal that was unabashedly masculine. Within the new reach of Ackermann’s Berluti, the clothes as well as the personas that bring them to life, have a much softer air about them. The distinctly male aesthetic that has popularized the brand is not diluted, ignored or back catalogued by any means. What Ackermann has extracted with this collection is a sense of ease that appropriately replaces the lightly instituted pretentiousness seen in collections of the past. This Berluti man is not as ponderous about the affectations of his wardrobe, he embodies an effortlessness. This is evident in the first look featuring a sweater under top coat, with cropped trousers and above-the-ankle lace up boots. The looks that follow further reinforce a lack of fussiness. Ackermann concerns himself with what the actual man of today will wear. If that is not a valid concern then I ask, what exactly is the point?